Putian Lor Mee

Briefly rinse 4 dried shiitake, 10 g dried shrimp and 10 g small dried scallops, then place in 3 clean bowls. Soak in 600 ml water total: 300 ml for the mushrooms and 150 ml each for the shrimp and scallops. Check after 30–60 minutes; the mushrooms should be pliable and the scallops should separate into fibres. Soak longer if still firm. Strain and reserve the clean soaking liquids, leaving sediment behind.

While soaking, separate the ribs and leaves of 200 g napa cabbage and cut into wide strips. Thinly slice half an onion, cut 30 g garlic chives into 4 cm lengths and mince 2 garlic cloves. Remove tough mushroom stems and slice the softened caps; shred the soaked scallops. Slice 80 g skinless pork belly about 3 mm thick. Check 100 g shucked oysters for shell fragments, rinse gently, drain and keep chilled. Wash hands and tools after handling raw meat and seafood.

Heat 1 tsp oil in a deep lidded wok about 30 cm wide over medium heat. Spread out all the pork belly and fry for about 3–4 minutes, until opaque with lightly golden edges and a little rendered fat. Do not fry it dry.

Add all the onion and garlic and fry over medium heat for about 1 minute until fragrant. Add all the sliced mushrooms, soaked dried shrimp and shredded scallops. Fry for another 1–2 minutes, until the onion begins to turn translucent and the mushrooms and seafood smell fragrant.

Add all the cabbage ribs and stir-fry for about 1 minute. Add 1 tbsp light soy sauce, all the strained soaking liquid and another 500 ml water. Bring to a boil, then simmer over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes, until the ribs begin to soften and the broth smells of seafood. Reserve the cabbage leaves. Use a 15 ml tablespoon and a 5 ml teaspoon.

Loosen 300 g raw fresh noodles and spread them over the broth in small handfuls. Press gently into contact with the liquid and lay all the cabbage leaves on top. Cover and keep at a gentle simmer over medium-low heat for about 3–4 minutes, until the strands separate but remain firm in the center. Uncover and gently loosen them without breaking the noodles.

Distribute all 100 g oysters among the noodles and broth. Return to a boil and cook for at least 3 minutes, gently turning them into the liquid, until opaque and slightly firm; larger oysters may need longer. Check that the noodles have no raw floury core. Continue cooking and recheck if needed.

Add the remaining 100 ml water, 1/4 tsp salt and all the garlic chives. Fold gently and bring back to a boil for about 1 minute, until the chives just wilt and the noodles are supple. Keep the broth savory and flowing rather than reducing it to a dry noodle dish. If too thin, simmer briefly uncovered and turn gently to prevent sticking. Divide between two bowls and serve immediately.

Divide the cooked noodles, toppings and broth evenly between two bowls and serve immediately.